Going to Bahia

Perhaps I have some Latin America jinx.

I knew going in that it was going to be a difficult trip down, as I had to go from NYC to Miami (3 hrs) to Sao Paulo (8 hours) to Salvaldor (3 hours, with 2 hours in between). It wasn't until I got to Laguardia that I found out my miami flight was delayed 2 hours (and mom checked!) Then my Sao Paolo flight was delayed an hour and a half.

The flight was not a bad 8 hours, although it would have been much better had I been one of the lucky few who got a pair of seats to themselves. I would've slept like a baby. July 4 is a good day to fly. And flying out of Laguardia was great... it took me 5 minutes to check in, instead of waiting on line for 2 hours which I've grown accustomed to.

Then I missed my Salvador flight, but they were good enough to have re-booked me for a flight an hour later before I even got off the plane. That was very efficient and considerate, I thought.

I was very confused in Sao Paolo... tired, equipped with only a few phrases in Portuguese (although I seem to understand when spoken to). The girl told me some gate, some number, but figured out about a half an hour later that I had to 'disembark,' which meant not only to clear customs, but I had to leave the airport, and essentially check in again at the domestic wing.

It wasn't until I reached Salvador that I learned that I HAD TO TAKE MY OWN BAGGAGE WITH ME.

Fuck.

I'm neither upset nor surprised for some reason. The guy filled out a report, told me that they'd get the luggage to Salvador, probably that day, and gave me his extension.

The people in Salvador are SO NICE. Every time I've told people I need some kind of help today, they've put their hand on my shoulder, and either told me where I need to go, or even in the case of the flight attentant, walked me to where I needed to be.

I get to the bus stop at the airport, which you'd miss even if you're looking for it. The sign posted said that there wasn't a bus for another hour and a half. So I stagger back into the airport and wait.

I think waiting is what I'm going to have to get used to around here very soon.

I get back to the bus stop 20 minutes early to discover that there's a bunch of local buses that make the trip from the airport to the center or town, circling around the whole city. A very scenic view, air conditioned (freezing, actually), but another hour and a half. For the $2.

Somehow, without a decent map (did I mention I forgot to print the hostel directions?), I get to the hostel. This was after staggering around for 25 minutes, lost. I finally was going to take a taxi, and the taxi driver told me it wasn't worth it. Too many turns. I should just walk, and he told me how to get there.

The hostel is clean, but basic. Perfect for what I need... Wifi (which will be great if I can charge Rik's laptop... converter in the suitcase...) a clean shower (clean clothes also in suitcase)... free breakfast and coffee ALL DAY, and I can cook and leave leftovers in the fridge.

I am glad I chose the private room, which was only $30 a night. I can (and will) be doing the dorm room thing for a bit while I'm here, but it was really great to come to the hostel exhausted and not have to deal with anyone else.

Oh, except one of the cats who lives at the hostel, who climbed into bed with me a couple of times during the night, through the open window. So cute!

Salvador is beautiful. And not a Paris kind of beautiful, but the kind of beautiful that Cuba should have been. Old colonial buildings and churches, painted in garish shades. Bahian women dressed all in white, serving up acaraje, bean patties fried in fiery dende oil, stuffed with shrimp (haven't had one yet.) Cobblestone streets at gradients my calves and thighs are already cursing me over. Music pouring through the streets.

I realized at about 7.30 last night that I hadn't eaten more than a couple of power bars that day, so I went to the corner bar for something. I ordered a plate of fried fish (don't know what kind) with a side of dressed tomatoes (that's salad, evidently) with pirao, a mash of manioc, dende oil, and spices. My first caipirinha.

The pirao was (other than a touch oversalted) out of this world. Savory, salty, hot, stick-to-your ribs. Better than any mashed potato I've ever had. I was definitely drunk off one caipirinha on the empty stomach I was working with.

I was exhauted, drunk, wearing clothes I have worn for what I felt was days. Luggage only possibly waiting for me at the airport, a 4-hour excursion in the near future, I bet. And yet, I feel completely at ease.