Hua Hin, home of the honest tuk-tuk drivers

The first time I was in Thailand, I came here.  Hua Hin is a beach town about 3.5 south of Bangkok.  I had the fortune of meeting Carla and Kimberley, sisters from Vancouver who were traveling together.  We stuck together and got a place on the water together.  There was no sun if I recall, but it was so lovely I didn't care.

So here I am again.

I have one more night in Bangkok before I fly off to meet the girls in Tokyo.  They were nice enough to let me leave my big suitcase there for a couple of days, so I only had a backpack with a bathing suit, some clothing, and toiletries.  Aaaaaaaahhhhhh.

I left the hostel a little later than I wanted, but it took less time than I expected...20 minutes on the skytrain to victory monument, then I found the $6 minibus that made the 3 hour trip here.  The address I had for nilawan guesthouse was 113/18 phetkasem.  The bus let me off on phetkasem, and I figure I have to walk to soi 113.  I was on soi 48 or so.  Ok, maybe it won't be too long.

It's a little longer than I thought, maybe I'll stop for food first.  No, nothing looks good.  There are no metered taxis.  In fact, there are no tuk-tuks either.  Just keep walking.  Good exercise.  

Ok, now it's hot.  I see a sign for a taxi in front of a liquor store.  A guy pops out and I show him the address.  He has no idea where it is.  He asks the girl inside, who speaks English.  She has no idea.  They call the guesthouse.  They are on the phone for a while, talking directions.  It's along the street... How hard is this to find?  No one in Thailand knows where anything is?

I swear, the only place in the world with a worse street numbering system is Queens.

They get off the phone.  100 baht.  They refuse to negotiate.  It's too far, they said.  It had only cost me 180 baht to get all the way here from Bangkok, but they want 100 baht to get down the road?!?

Why am I saying no?  IT'S THREE DOLLARS.  Principle.  That's why.

I walk further.  Still not getting any closer, it seems.  I'm sweating.  I see a tuk-tuk driver.  Also wants 100 baht.  No negotiating.  Fuck it, I want a metered cab.

I keep walking.  I see a metered cab.  And the driver is a woman!  I show her the address.  She says HOW MUCH YOU PAY ME?  I say 50 baht.  She is visibly annoyed.  She says 200 baht.  What?!?  I told her it cost 180 from Bangkok.  She scoffs.  I am now really sweaty.  I go to tuk-tuk driver behind her.

They look at the address and point.  I was right there.  On the correct street.

Fuck that bitch.  I am now a fan of the tuk-tuk drivers.

My little guesthouse has perhaps the biggest room I have stayed in in a while, has a large queen sized bed, with a not-too-thick pillow that is perfect for me.  I've got a fridge, a bathroom/shower, a balcony with a table, aircon, and Internet.  It's just been cleaned and smells nice.  It's about $27, and steps from the beach.

There's a restaurant, and I'm starving, so I have them serve me up a huge plate of Penang curry chicken, which is thick and really peanuty and is very mild and I'm sure made just for the foreign palate, but holy shit it's delicious.  

I sit at the beach, read, knit, and the sun actually comes out for an hour or so.  The water is warm.

This is paradise.

I'm positioned between a really shitty night market and a small mall, and there's a lady with a huge punch bowl of coconut water with the young coconut already scraped from inside the coconuts for about 70 cents.  It is my new obsession.  

I don't remember venturing into this part of Hua Hin when I was here last. It's amazing.  Where we were last time was a little less city-like, and had a lot of seafood restaurants overlooking the water and bars full of hookers.  I like it here even better.

I find a restaurant called Somtam Yokkhok and I get a grilled catfish, a spicy papaya salad served in a mortar, and a beer for $5.  

I am so fucking happy.