Friday, July 26, 2013

Last night in Bangkok- how am i still eating like this?

I had just wanted a little something before I turned in for the night.  Maybe some seafood soup at the night market on my street.  After all, I was still full from the issan (northeastern) style lacquered chicken I had for lunch at my favorite spot in Hua Hin (I ate there 4 times, and it's always packed but I still can't seem to find it on the Internet.)  the issan region is famous for its spicy salads and its smoked, glazed (but not sweet) ,grilled, and delicious chicken.  It was like I was going to Chang Mai with my stomach the whole time I was in Hua Hin.

I'm not feeling the night market, so I cross the street to the more upscale soi 55.  The soul food joint briefly tempts me with their NY-priced cocktails, featuring local ingredients.  I think I've lost my taste for booze.  I've also temporarily lost my taste for spending $10 on a drink here when an excellent meal costs half that.

I'm now sitting at soi 57 seafood, right on sukhumvit.  It's a cart selling snapper, cockles, large snails they call Babylon, and there's a small grill next to a telephone booth that is so covered in soot it's completely unusable.  I'm sitting on a plastic chair, at a plastic table.  They tell me I have to get my drinks at the 7-11 they're parked in front of.

The 7-11 sells bright orange Thai iced tea out of a machine that in America would be selling some kind of coolata.  Perfect.

The three attractive guys running the stand and grilling my fish are blaring sappy Thai ballads.  There's a family next to me- a couple and their young boy eating everything the joint sells.  everything. And there are no side dishes here, only seafood.   They're visiting from Hong Kong.  I asked them what it would cost them in Hong Kong.  They roll their eyes.  Same in ny, I reply.

My fish is delicious.  They bring me two different sauces to slather on it... One is green, one is red.  Reminds me a bit of the green and red tabascos at home, but these are hotter.  It cost $8.

We're all sweating and it's past 10.  One guy is now sitting and eating chips.  One smokes a cigarette.  They've been Smily and nice to me, and it's my last night in Thailand.  I start to get sad that I'm going.  

So I go back to the 7-11, buy a 4-pack of Leo beer, give each guy one, and click my beer against theirs.  I leave tomorrow, I say.  

Kapunkha, Thailand.  So long, and thanks for all the fish.

1 comment:

Steve Kastenbaum said...

My wife lived on food from the street vendors while she was living there for a few months. I suppose it's a little less risky when you're a vegetarian. I like chicken and fish so when I saw the chicken carcasses hanging open in the street, flies buzzing around, I passed. Heck, a wok is so hot it really does kill all bacteria but why take a chance. LOL What part of Bangkok were you staying in? So freakin' hot and humid. I took three showers a day. Did you have spicy cooked green beans anywhere? I was there 6 or 7 years ago and I think I can still feel the hotness in one corner of my mouth. Safe travels.